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+--- Thread: Got My Part 6 In (/showthread.php?tid=21348)
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Got My Part 6 In - Ruste Dowg - 12-14-2007
Is this the guy that recast a dmc and a Frightstuff blank?
Got My Part 6 In - Crash - 12-14-2007
<!--quoteo(post=248359:date=Dec 13 2007, 09:43 PM:name=sirbrad)<div class=\'quotetop\'>QUOTE(sirbrad @ Dec 13 2007, 09:43 PM) <a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=248359\"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class=\'quotemain\'><!--quotecI prefer comfortability and longevity over "accuracy." Brown leather is as accurate as I need, especially considering no one will see it at night, nor care. Only hardcore fans here will. However if a rivet pulls through, I cannot change it easily as I could a snap. Also the screen accurate strap was not adjustable because it was made to fit CJ. I do not have the luxury. So this will do. I do not have the desire to copy something exactly like something else, I am more creative and innovative than that, and prefer to make my own little variations. Not to mention make the mask last much longer...<!--QuoteEnd</div><!--QuoteEEndThe Hockey Mask looks great. Nice score. Plastic masks can look and feel a lot better than some fiberglass masks. Especially for comfort's sake. And trust me, if done well, rivets will NOT pull through a mask. If anything a snap will pull through or pull off the strap before a rivet will just by taking the straps off and on repeatedly, especially if they are a tight fit.But I don't understand your creative/innovative comment. "Copying" a mask for screen accuracy is a LOT more creative work than what you may think. Everyone here who has built/painted hockey masks can attest to that. From Mike at FOD to the FrightStuff guys and all the guys just making a Hockey Mask for themselves. We'll all tell you the same. A well built hockey mask will last for years and years . . . whether it has snaps OR rivets. And most Hockey Mask makers can and will make adjustable straps for a part 6 mask. It can be done. And the more you get into the hobby, chances are one day you will want a screen accurate mask. I can already tell because you mentioned the maker got the scratches pretty close on the red tri. If accuracy meant nothing to you, then you'd never had noticed this.I'm glad you are enjoying your mask and maybe i misunderstood your post (and I apologize if I did), but achieving "accuracy" is an art. As long as you are happy with it, that's what matters. And that is totally cool with me. But your post came off, to me, like a swipe at Hockey Mask builders.
Got My Part 6 In - Savage - 12-14-2007
I'm really sorry, but I can't see how the tri damage is at all accurate to the screen used mask! I actually dont see ONE accurate scratch on the tri!<img src=\"http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d28/cartoonman0101/part6tri.jpg\" border=\"0\" class=\"linked-image\" />
Got My Part 6 In - mike - 12-14-2007
crash is right accuracy takes a while to get ..from colors to marking placement even the goof up spots on screen used mask and damge during filming that we now try to copy..then you gotta deciede do you paint it the way it really was or the way it is seen on the screen.. theres a few guys here crash,dean,darren that know how long it takes as well as all that time put into a mask aint that easy...great mask thou for the price but if you want a accurate mask then your gonan pay a little more
Got My Part 6 In - sirbrad - 12-14-2007
I am more concerned as to getting it very close as possible, and that it will actually fit properly. Leather straps are heavy on plastic, and elastic straps are light on fiberglass. So with snaps I can actually switch them which is great. I am more of a "wearer" than some who just collects screen accurate pieces that just sit and collect dust. I like it close, but it does not have to be 100% screen accurate, especially if it looks good. Otherwise I will pay a lot more money just for a certain kind of strap that may not even fit me, and both still look as good as the other.I have limited room as well, so being able interchange straps if need be is a plus. On the costumes I create I try to be as exact as possible, but I can only use what I have to work with. I prefer to modify once in awhile for a better look, or more realistic look as well. An example being, although part 8 has a human flesh pinkie sticking out in the movie, to me this is just plain stupid. So I would keep the charred decayed hands from part 7, or the gloves from 8. Technically it is not being "screen accurate," but in this case it is a good thing. See where I am coming from? I prefer screen accurate with life accurate, coupled with personal touches.I have had many costumes over the past 30 years, and just starting out they were not exactly screen accurate, but no one ever said so or even mentioned that term in 30 years. But yes I am very happy with it, and I chose to have it made the way it is.
Got My Part 6 In - sirbrad - 12-14-2007
<!--quoteo(post=248386:date=Dec 14 2007, 08:55 AM:name=Crash)<div class=\'quotetop\'>QUOTE(Crash @ Dec 14 2007, 08:55 AM) <a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=248386\"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class=\'quotemain\'><!--quotecThe Hockey Mask looks great. Nice score. Plastic masks can look and feel a lot better than some fiberglass masks. Especially for comfort's sake. And trust me, if done well, rivets will NOT pull through a mask. If anything a snap will pull through or pull off the strap before a rivet will just by taking the straps off and on repeatedly, especially if they are a tight fit.But I don't understand your creative/innovative comment. "Copying" a mask for screen accuracy is a LOT more creative work than what you may think. Everyone here who has built/painted hockey masks can attest to that. From Mike at FOD to the FrightStuff guys and all the guys just making a Hockey Mask for themselves. We'll all tell you the same. A well built hockey mask will last for years and years . . . whether it has snaps OR rivets. And most Hockey Mask makers can and will make adjustable straps for a part 6 mask. It can be done. And the more you get into the hobby, chances are one day you will want a screen accurate mask. I can already tell because you mentioned the maker got the scratches pretty close on the red tri. If accuracy meant nothing to you, then you'd never had noticed this.I'm glad you are enjoying your mask and maybe i misunderstood your post (and I apologize if I did), but achieving "accuracy" is an art. As long as you are happy with it, that's what matters. And that is totally cool with me. But your post came off, to me, like a swipe at Hockey Mask builders.<!--QuoteEnd</div><!--QuoteEEndI was simply stating that "screen accurate" does not necessarily mean best looking, it simply means looks as it did on screen. I like to modify some if needed to suit my current situation and realism.