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+--- Thread: Ulracal30 Usage Help... (/showthread.php?tid=14966)
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Ulracal30 Usage Help... - Jason-V - 11-16-2006
Ive never made a mold from this.. only used Hydrocal. I understand that Hcal sets faster, so you can make the mold usually in one go. However, my Hcal molds become very brittle around the detail in my masks, when i pull the blank out i lose detail.. every time. Im gonna try Ucal30, but never worked with it. So my question is the best way to make a pro mold off my master copy. I guess start with a thin layer for the detail layer. How long before i start addind additional layers??? And how much build up?
Thanks for any HElp!
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Ulracal30 Usage Help... - GBeninati - 11-16-2006
I used ultracal 30 for the few molds that I had made. also added acryl60 to the plaster.. the mold is as hard as rock and you won\'t loose any detail. Although, many would suggest that you use ultracal for your master mold and hydrocal for your copy mold. They both have their pros and cons, kind of like the agument between roma and wed. I will let the pros answer your questions...
Ulracal30 Usage Help... - D-bach - 11-16-2006
1/4 inch for the first layer, let it go the the heating and cooling stages, before doing the second layer
Ulracal30 Usage Help... - Jason-V - 11-17-2006
thanks all.. and thanks to Mike who let me in on some info as well..
Ulracal30 Usage Help... - SuperDanDrista - 11-17-2006
One more thing. Justin suggests, if I remember correctly, to soak the master copy in water first and then dry it with a cloth before you mold it. Makes a less powdery and stronger detail coat
Ulracal30 Usage Help... - Willowman - 11-17-2006
Yeah, Justin says to fill it with water then pour it right back out to wet the surface. No need to dry it. This makes the latex flow into the details instead of roll right over them. This also keeps air pockets from forming due to the dryness.
Ulracal30 Usage Help... - Jason-V - 11-17-2006
Quote:Yeah, Justin says to fill it with water then pour it right back out to wet the surface. No need to dry it. This makes the latex flow into the details instead of roll right over them. This also keeps air pockets from forming due to the dryness.
[post=\"190654\"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post]
I think you reffering to the finished mold before you pour the latex in.. yes i use this method everytime.. you can just look in there and see all the air bubbles shooting out of the stone.BTW Gary.. how much acryl60 did you use?
Ulracal30 Usage Help... - D-bach - 11-17-2006
30% acryl 60, to 70% water, is what ive been told
Ulracal30 Usage Help... - SuperDanDrista - 11-17-2006
Ya I spray my stone molds before I cast just because it gets rid of airbubbles....
But this method of soaking the latex master copy makes sense too..I hope Justin sees this thread
Ulracal30 Usage Help... - Willowman - 11-17-2006
Quote:I think you reffering to the finished mold before you pour the latex in.. yes i use this method everytime.. you can just look in there and see all the air bubbles shooting out of the stone.BTW Gary.. how much acryl60 did you use?
[post=\"190657\"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post]
Yeah, you\'re right.