02-10-2005, 02:10 AM
(This post was last modified: 02-10-2005, 02:13 AM by WilliamAbuJannah.)
well.....
if the guy who put it on originally didn\'t sand the backplate, there\'s a good chance it\'s not bonded very well, and you might be able to chip it off.
If it was put on really well, you\'d have to dismantle the glove to get down to just the backplate. Heat the whole thing up and wipe it down real fast with a wet rag when the solder turns molten. Once you\'ve gotten the bulk of the solder off, you\'ll still have to sand the very last thin bit off. Then recolor the backplate however you want, (once it\'s cooled) and reassemble the glove with new rivets.
When I do my part 4\'s, I sand down the brass and copper in the exact shape I want the solder to be on the backplate and fingerjoints, that way the solder grips the metal and wont come off. If it\'s not sanded, the solders basically just \'stuck\' to the surface of the metal. Sometimes you can even peel it off like a sticker.
hope this helps.
oh yeah, you must disassemble the glove if that\'s the route you take. If your torch gets anywhere near the leather of the glove, even if you\'re just trying to repair a certain section, the heat will still travel all through the metal armature and will shrink the leather up like a piece of melting plastic. It\'ll just shrivel right up. Worse case scenerio your blades and fingerrings will heat up and fall off. Then you\'ll just want to cry and slam the whole thing in the ground.
Razorgloves are tricky lil sumbitches.
if the guy who put it on originally didn\'t sand the backplate, there\'s a good chance it\'s not bonded very well, and you might be able to chip it off.
If it was put on really well, you\'d have to dismantle the glove to get down to just the backplate. Heat the whole thing up and wipe it down real fast with a wet rag when the solder turns molten. Once you\'ve gotten the bulk of the solder off, you\'ll still have to sand the very last thin bit off. Then recolor the backplate however you want, (once it\'s cooled) and reassemble the glove with new rivets.
When I do my part 4\'s, I sand down the brass and copper in the exact shape I want the solder to be on the backplate and fingerjoints, that way the solder grips the metal and wont come off. If it\'s not sanded, the solders basically just \'stuck\' to the surface of the metal. Sometimes you can even peel it off like a sticker.
hope this helps.
oh yeah, you must disassemble the glove if that\'s the route you take. If your torch gets anywhere near the leather of the glove, even if you\'re just trying to repair a certain section, the heat will still travel all through the metal armature and will shrink the leather up like a piece of melting plastic. It\'ll just shrivel right up. Worse case scenerio your blades and fingerrings will heat up and fall off. Then you\'ll just want to cry and slam the whole thing in the ground.
Razorgloves are tricky lil sumbitches.