Solder For Stainless On Fred Gloves?

[🪦 carter1010 ●]

Anyone have any info on where to get a good low temp solder for soldering blades on a fred glove? The stuff I got from a local shop requires to high of a melting point and burned through my copper. I tried some Stay Brite Silver solder but that didn\'t want to stick to the stainless. Any suggestions from you glove makers out there?


Thanks in advance!

carter

flemby....nice guys

[🪦 Jason-V ●]

I think i used to use dutch boy solder from lowes..

It says on the package for stainless.. copper..

The flux however was a liquid flux i got from national welders.. it was used for brazing..

[🪦 Rayne00 ●]

If you use acid core, you don\'t need flux. But everyone\'s got a different technique and preference. I used the old trial and error approach. :wink:

[🪦 carter1010 ●]

Thanks for the info guys. I know some of you aren\'t going to want to part with your secrets for soldering...and I can appreciate that. I was about to spend about 50 bucks at muggy weld for their super alloy one solder, but if it doesn\'t worked, I am out 50 bucks and they dont send samples. When I asked them if it would work, they said it should. I guess I am looking for an absolute yes this will work about some product out there. I can trade one set of lazer cut flemby glove blades for either a part 1, 3, or 4 for any specific information you guys can provide me as to product and flux.. I just don\'t want to waste any more money on this than I have to. I burnt through a perfect part 4 finger tip and it was very disheartening. It was what Stay Brite had recommended when I emailed them.


Thanks again,
carter

[🪦 josephchoi ●]

any pics of ur gloves?

[🪦 carter1010 ●]

Soon, I have several shaped and several leathers weathered and ready. I have the blades, its just a matter of getting the blades on the armature and assembling them. I will post some as soon as I can get them done. I may just go ahead and order super alloy 1 from Muggy weld and try it. If it doesn\'t work, then I am not sure how long it will be. If it works, I will have some done this week. If not, as long as it takes to find a solution that works. Still open to options as I won\'t be ordering from Muggy weld till tomorrow night in hopes someone can shed some light on this whole solder situation. If anyone has any info, you can also send me a private message or email me at carter1010@comcast.net.

Thanks,
carter

[🪦 puckface ●]

this dude can make some gloves, Ive seen pics and they are accurate as can be

[🪦 carter1010 ●]

Thanks for the props man, Just hope I can still do it : )

I did place an order for some solder from johnson mfg. They assured me it would work and have offered excellent technical assistance. I will not have it till Thursday or Friday though : ( They have a flux specifically for stainless that they said cuts into stainless a bit more. I will let everyone know how it goes hopefully with some pics of some test gloves that I will keep for reference. Then I will be on my way....

[🪦 first chapter ●]

Maybe this chart will help...

[url=\"http://www.jwharris.com/jwref/chart/\"]J.W. Harris Co.[/url]

[🪦 Ben_Forsaken ●]

sounds like you tried to Sil-Floss it. That stuff has an extremly high melting temp and yeah, the copper will disentagrate first. We used that stuff on really thick brass and copper for underground water lines.

The trick is getting the steel and the copper both evenly heated so the solder bonds to both and not just the copper. Steel also has to be hotter then copper. That\'s the trick, you\'re bonding two different alloys. It\'s trail and error, technique, and honestly just practicing using a blow torch and solder.