03-25-2010, 02:14 AM
<!--quoteo(post=355078:date=Mar 24 2010, 08:06 PM:name=papaprut)<div class=\'quotetop\'>QUOTE (papaprut @ Mar 24 2010, 08:06 PM) <a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=355078\"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class=\'quotemain\'><!--quotecI definitely checked out your video mark. I tried to stay as close to it as possible. I noticed you use Silvabrite 100, and another person I talked too uses it also. I might try to find some. that COULD be my problem.<!--QuoteEnd</div><!--QuoteEEndNot really sure. My secret is to ALWAYS get the solder to stick to the steel first. Focus your flame mostly on the blade and try to not heat up the copper too much because the copper will snag the solder before the steel does. Stainless steel can be tricky to solder. I would make a new video showing my new techniques (it's a lot faster) but I want to keep some self-created methods to myself that I've just learned over time (over 200 gloves now). It's VERY frustrating to get good at it, which is why, IMO, most glove builders don't really get off the ground (also it's costly). But just stick with it, practice a lot on mainly just getting the solder to stick to stainless steel. Because you probably don't have a problem soldering copper. But once you memorize the timing, heat intensity, blade prepping technique, and other aspects of the trick, it will just get easier and easier. So, if you want my 1 piece of advice, try to just practice on getting solder to TRULY stick to the steel first. You know you have a true hold of the solder isn't beading on the steel and creates a clean coating of solder on the surface.