Help ! Solder Will Not Stick To Blades.

[🪦 papaprut ●]

ok, so here is the deal. I am working on my new Freddy glove and my solder wont stick to the stainless steel blades ( you may ask if you already did one why are you having problems !! Well because my first one was made of Sheet metal). SO, I have no idea whats wrong. The solder is holding to the copper, but as soon as I let it cool down, and remove it from the vice, the blade just like pulls off. I made sure I cleaned the copper well. I also took the post of the blade to my wire brush on my bench grinder to make sure it was clean, and the solder had something to adhere to, but still nothing. Does anyone have any idea why this might be happening ? Could it be the solder ? I included a picture of the solder below.Here is what I am usingropane TorchSilver Bearing Solder <a href=\"http://s473.photobucket.com/albums/rr95/Papaprut/?action=view&current=Picture2-3.png\" target=\"_blank\"><img src=\"http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr95/Papaprut/Picture2-3.png\" border=\"0\" class=\"linked-image\" /></a>

[🪦 HorrorFX ●]

Make sure you are using soldering flux as this will help the solder to both metals. Also, grind the parts of the stainless steel and then flux them where you want the solder to stick. Silver soldering is tricky but you must remember to heat both metals first <img src=\"style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif\" style=\"vertical-align:middle\" emoid=\"\" border=\"0\" alt=\"smile.gif\" />-Chris

[🪦 mpetrie ●]

Maybe this will help? I've change my methods quite a bit since I made this video but it might help a bit.<a href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_UMrV0Ut3Q\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_UMrV0Ut3Q</a>

[🪦 papaprut ●]

I definitely checked out your video mark. I tried to stay as close to it as possible. I noticed you use Silvabrite 100, and another person I talked too uses it also. I might try to find some. that COULD be my problem.

[🪦 mpetrie ●]

<!--quoteo(post=355078:date=Mar 24 2010, 08:06 PM:name=papaprut)<div class=\'quotetop\'>QUOTE (papaprut @ Mar 24 2010, 08:06 PM) <a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=355078\"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class=\'quotemain\'><!--quotecI definitely checked out your video mark. I tried to stay as close to it as possible. I noticed you use Silvabrite 100, and another person I talked too uses it also. I might try to find some. that COULD be my problem.<!--QuoteEnd</div><!--QuoteEEndNot really sure. My secret is to ALWAYS get the solder to stick to the steel first. Focus your flame mostly on the blade and try to not heat up the copper too much because the copper will snag the solder before the steel does. Stainless steel can be tricky to solder. I would make a new video showing my new techniques (it's a lot faster) but I want to keep some self-created methods to myself that I've just learned over time (over 200 gloves now). It's VERY frustrating to get good at it, which is why, IMO, most glove builders don't really get off the ground (also it's costly). But just stick with it, practice a lot on mainly just getting the solder to stick to stainless steel. Because you probably don't have a problem soldering copper. But once you memorize the timing, heat intensity, blade prepping technique, and other aspects of the trick, it will just get easier and easier. So, if you want my 1 piece of advice, try to just practice on getting solder to TRULY stick to the steel first. You know you have a true hold of the solder isn't beading on the steel and creates a clean coating of solder on the surface.

[🪦 papaprut ●]

<!--quoteo(post=355085:date=Mar 24 2010, 10:14 PM:name=knifegloves.com)<div class=\'quotetop\'>QUOTE (knifegloves.com @ Mar 24 2010, 10:14 PM) <a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=355085\"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class=\'quotemain\'><!--quotecNot really sure. My secret is to ALWAYS get the solder to stick to the steel first. Focus your flame mostly on the blade and try to not heat up the copper too much because the copper will snag the solder before the steel does. Stainless steel can be tricky to solder. I would make a new video showing my new techniques (it's a lot faster) but I want to keep some self-created methods to myself that I've just learned over time (over 200 gloves now). It's VERY frustrating to get good at it, which is why, IMO, most glove builders don't really get off the ground (also it's costly). But just stick with it, practice a lot on mainly just getting the solder to stick to stainless steel. Because you probably don't have a problem soldering copper. But once you memorize the timing, heat intensity, blade prepping technique, and other aspects of the trick, it will just get easier and easier. So, if you want my 1 piece of advice, try to just practice on getting solder to TRULY stick to the steel first. You know you have a true hold of the solder isn't beading on the steel and creates a clean coating of solder on the surface.<!--QuoteEnd</div><!--QuoteEEndThanks so much mark. Now that I am thinking back to what I was doing, I think that what your explaining could be my problem. what I am doing is trying to put the flame so it hits the copper and blade evenly. And since copper heats faster than the stainless, it is probrably just adhering to the copper before the steel even gets a chance to heat up properly. And your right, I do need to practice. it is my first time working with the 2 materials. I am sure it will come eventually. It's just frustrating lol

[🪦 allthingsevil ●]

Mark you are right you have to hit the stainless with solder first. but it also varies if you use sheet metal or copper pipe I sometimes have to heat the copper up first because it is so thick. And becareful dont heat the stainless too much just enough to start softening the solder to get it to stick too the stainless then you hit your joint and it should flow together. silverbrite solder is a great solder for stainless. Also menards caries a acid core solder you wont need flux with this stuff. But any solder you go with make sure it is at least 95% tin this will stick to stainless better.